This is a guest post by chef Carla Hall, the bestselling author of “Carla Hall’s Soul Food: Everyday and Celebration.” She co-hosted the Emmy-winning “The Chew” for seven seasons.
Source: Library of Congress
December 23, 2024
By Carla Hall
Posted by: Neely Tucker
Photo of Carla Hall By Clay Williams: Courtesy
“When I think back to Christmases growing up in Nashville, one of my most cherished memories is the drive out to Lebanon, Tennessee. Every year, my mom, sister, and I would make that 30-mile trip to my grandparents’ house—Doc and Freddie Mai Glover’s—for the holiday. It was a tradition that filled me with excitement, not only for the presents but for the incredible food my Granny would prepare.”
That time in my life is the inspiration behind my children’s book, *Carla and the Christmas Cornbread*. Food, family, and love were all wrapped together during those early days, and that’s the story the book tells. In reality, though, our Christmas table wasn’t just for my immediate family—cousins, aunts, uncles, and other relatives would come from all over Tennessee, New York, and Michigan, filling the house with energy and laughter.
One of my fondest memories is how Granny would wait until we arrived to start making her famous cornbread. She made it fresh, and her cinnamon butter really took it over the top—just butter, powdered sugar, cinnamon, and a splash of vanilla extract. You had to eat it hot, right out of the oven.
And then there were her yeast rolls. She always placed the dough in the warmest spot in the house, usually near a radiator, to let it rise. The smell of those rolls filled the whole house throughout the day. That memory stuck with me so much that to this day, I always add a little extra yeast to my bread recipes, trying to recapture that magic.
Dinner at Granny and Doc’s was always a feast. My grandfather was a doctor, and in those days, many people didn’t have cash to pay him. Instead, they’d bring food—hams, turkeys, and even fresh produce from their gardens. So, our Christmas table was overflowing with abundance. Granny’s pickled condiments, like cucumbers and onions with a touch of dill, were served alongside peeled, sliced tomatoes. There were always her mixed greens—collards and mustards—and candied sweet potatoes with marshmallows for the kids.
Of all the dishes, her five-flavor pound cake with boiled custard was my favorite. Years later, when I went to culinary school, I learned that what we called “boiled custard” was actually crème anglaise. But to me, it will always be boiled custard, and that cake will always remind me of her.
The day wasn’t just about food, though. My grandfather would collect coins throughout the year, and on Christmas Day my sister and I would pour them out onto the floor to divide up. We’d start with the quarters—one for her, one for me—and work our way down to the pennies. Then, we’d put the coins into those little saver books you could get from the bank. I loved those books and wish I’d saved at least one.
By the afternoon, the house was packed with relatives—20 or 30 people at its peak. People were always coming and going, making it feel so festive. Granny had a carousel of candy canes in different flavors. My favorite was lemon, but I’d always grab a peppermint, too.
At the end of the day, we’d get back into the car and head home. We never spent the night; it was just that one perfect day. Those Christmases were special and they always will be. Even now, when I visit Nashville, I still feel like that kid waiting for Christmas. It’s my favorite holiday, a time when old memories mix with new ones, like a recipe that deepens in flavor with each passing year.
Pecan-Toffee Pound Cakes with Praline “Boiled Custard”
Photo Courtesy Spicy Southern Kitchen
Adapted Recipe Originally Posted by Christin Mahrlig
Mini pound cakes flavored with pecans and toffee, drizzled with a delicious praline flavored Crème Anglaise.
SERVINGS: 5
Ingredients
- ▢ 1/2 cup butter,, softened
- ▢ 3/4 cup granulated sugar
- ▢ 1/4 cup packed brown sugar
- ▢ 2 large eggs
- ▢ 1 cup all-purpose flour
- ▢ 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- ▢ 1/4 teaspoon salt
- ▢ 1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon heavy whipping cream
- ▢ 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- ▢ 1/2 cup finely toasted pecans
- ▢ 1/3 cup toffee bits
Praline “Boiled Custard”
- ▢ 1 cup milk
- ▢ 3 eggs yolks
- ▢ 1/4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
- ▢ 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- ▢ 1 1/2 teaspoons pecan-flavored liqueur
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
- Spray 5 mini bundt pans with nonstick cooking spray with flour.
- In a mixing bowl, combine both sugars an butter and beat at medium speed until fluffy.
- Add eggs one at a time, beating until well-combined.
- Combine flour, baking powder, and salt.
- Gradually add flour mixture, alternating with heavy cream, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Do not overbeat.
- Beat in vanilla and stir in pecans and toffee bits.
- Bake 20-22 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean.
- Cool in pans 10-15 minutes. Remove to wire rack to cool completely.
- For Crème Anglaise, bring milk to a simmer in a medium saucepan, but not to a boil. Remove from heat an set aside.
- Combine egg yolks and brown sugar in a mixing bowl and beat for 2 minutes at medium speed with an electric mixer.
- Whisking constantly, gradually add 1/2 cup hot milk to yolk mixture. Add yolk mixture to remaining hot milk in saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, about 5 to 6 minutes, until mixture thickens slightly. Place saucepan in an ice bath. Stir in vanilla and pecan liqueur. Stir sauce every now and then while it cools.
- Serve drizzled over cakes.
