Documentarian Rochelle Brown attributes the origins of Chicken and Waffles to James T. Wells at his eponymous Harlem restaurant.
By Levi Gwaltney
Photo By Kcenia Gwaltney for Las Cruces Digest
Many in our broader community may be familiar with the ongoing debate surrounding the origins of the margarita cocktail. The story of where the margarita originated remain a point of pride, with regions and communities all along the border wanting to claim cultural ownership of the popular cocktail. Las Cruces Digest has no editorial position on the subject, except to say that Francisco “Pancho” Morales in Juárez has as good of a claim to the title “Inventor of the Margarita” as anyone else.
There are many foods and beverages whose origins can quickly cause an argument. One such dish is Chicken and Waffles.
A wonderful article on the subject was published by Ebony in 2019: “[HUNGRY FOR HISTORY] CHICKEN AND WAFFLES”. In the article, documentarian Rochelle Brown attributes the origins of Chicken and Waffles to James T. Wells at his eponymous Harlem restaurant. Wells’ Restaurant opened in 1938, and became the “go-to after-hours spot” at the tail end of the Harlem Renaissance.
Wells’ Restaurant might be the first time Chicken and Waffles was offered up on a restaurant menu, but Black culture in the South has claimed its origin for themselves. Regardless of the factual origins, Chicken and Waffles is quintessentially considered a staple of soul food—associated with, and attributed to, African American culture.
Because of the rise in popularity of soul food, my family was able to happen upon an elevated dinner comprised almost entirely of leftovers from the Thanksgiving meal. Mind you, over the past thirty years, I have made turkey sandwiches, turkey soups, turkey a la king, turkey hash, turkey pot pies, turkey salads, turkey pastas… the list goes on. This year, we added a little soul to our leftovers, and we could not be more thankful for whoever dreamed up combining poultry with waffles. [No claims are being made here. It was dumb luck that brought us to this leftover dinner combination. The credit for its inspiration belongs with the culture that has cultivated the soul food palate for generations.]
This Thanksgiving, our daughter made pumpkin pies, and had leftover pumpkin purée. We needed to do something with it, so my wife suggested waffles. We were going to save the idea for the following day’s breakfast until it dawned on me. If Chicken and Waffles is a popular dinner option, why not Turkey and Waffles? Thus, the Turkey and Pumpkin Waffles dinner was born… at least at our house. [I just Googled “Turkey and Waffles”… so, of course, this is not an original combination. Nothing new, here… just new to us.]
Below, please find the recipes for Pumpkin Waffles and our family version of Skillet Green Beans. [Shout out to Ramon P. at Toucan Market. The fresh turkey ordered from the meat counter was SPECTACULAR! Even the leftovers were succulent and delicious. Thanks, Ramon!]
Recipe: Pumpkin Waffles
Ingredients:
- 2 large eggs
- 3/4 cups milk
- 1/4 cup melted butter
- 1/2 cup pumpkin purée
- 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
- 1 cup flour
- 1 tablespoon baking powder
- 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1 1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
Start by preheating the waffle iron. As the waffle iron warms up, beat the eggs into the combined wet ingredients (milk, melted butter, pumpkin and vanilla. Stir in dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, sugar, salt and pumpkin spice) until just mixed [a few small lumps will not affect the end result.]
Once heated, oil the waffle iron surface (to avoid burns, cooking spray is the recommended method). Pour batter onto the hot waffle iron, spreading with the back of a spoon (if necessary). Cook until crispy.
Serve with leftover turkey, topped with a thin disk of cranberry jelly (or reserved syrup from the candied yams). A small dallop of green chile atop the jelly or syrup adds a surprising kick.
Recipe: Skillet Green Beans
a “grandma-style” recipe
Ingredients:
- Whole Green Beans
- Fresh Cranberries
- Pecan Halves
- Butter
- Salt, Pepper (to taste)
- Optional: Dash of Nutmeg
Melt butter in skillet set to medium heat. Add pecans, stirring to coat with butter. Add cranberries. Add green beans. Stir together over medium heat until the pecans start to show first signs of “toasting”. Add salt, pepper (and nutmeg, if desired). Give it all one more good stir, then turn off the heat and place a lid on the skillet. Once the lid is on, the skillet can be removed from the stove top. The beans will steam until perfectly done (fork tender, yet slightly firm).
Remove to a serving bowl just prior to meal time. (These green beans are best when they are still warm.)